How to Store Amaryllis Bulbs

If you’ve ever tossed an amaryllis in the trash right after it finished blooming, this is your sign to stop.
With a little know-how, you can store amaryllis bulbs and get those giant, dramatic blooms year after year.
Think of it as a holiday tradition that saves money and makes you look like a plant wizard.

In this guide, you’ll learn exactly how to store amaryllis bulbs, when to let them rest, the right temperature range,
how long dormancy should last, and what to do if you want them blooming right on time for the holidays.

Why Storing Amaryllis Bulbs Is Worth the Effort

Amaryllis bulbs aren’t one-and-done plants. When treated well, they can rebloom for many years.
That big, fat bulb is basically a rechargeable battery: during the growing season, it absorbs energy;
during storage, it rests and resets so it can flower again.

• You save money: One healthy bulb can bloom year after year instead of buying a new kit every winter.
• You get better blooms: Mature, well-cared-for bulbs often produce more flower stalks than brand-new ones.
• You control timing: Proper storage and dormancy let you time blooms for the holidays, winter, or early spring.

The secret is understanding dormancy and treating your amaryllis like a long-term houseguest instead of a seasonal decoration.

Step One: Care After Blooming Sets Up Successful Storage

Storing amaryllis bulbs actually starts right after the blooms fade. That’s when the plant starts rebuilding energy for the next show.

What to Do Right After the Flowers Fade

1. Remove the spent flowers: Snip off spent blooms so the plant doesn’t waste energy trying to set seed.
2. Leave the stalk until it yellows: Once it starts to yellow or collapse, cut it back to just above the bulb.
   Until then, it’s still feeding the bulb.
3. Keep the leaves: Do not cut the leaves off. They’re solar panels. Let them keep photosynthesizing.
4. Water and feed regularly: Treat your amaryllis like a foliage houseplant for the next few months,
   watering when the top inch of soil is dry and feeding with a balanced, diluted fertilizer every few weeks.

If temperatures are warm, many gardeners move the potted bulb outdoors to a bright, sheltered spot.
There, it can soak up real sunshine and bulk up before dormancy.

When to Start Dormancy (The “Nap Time” Phase)

Your amaryllis needs a rest period to rebloom well. Most people force dormancy in late summer or early fall
if they want holiday blooms, but you can adjust timing depending on when you want flowers.

General Timing Guidelines

• Let the plant grow for at least 4–6 months after flowering before forcing dormancy.
• Count back about 8–10 weeks from when you want blooms to finish the rest period and restart growth.

How to Trigger Dormancy

1. Gradually reduce watering: Over 2–3 weeks, water less and less until you stop completely.
2. Let foliage yellow naturally: As the plant dries out, leaves turn yellow and flop. That’s normal.
3. Cut back dead foliage: Once the leaves are dry and brown, cut them off near the neck of the bulb.

At this point, the bulb has finished its “charging” phase. Now it’s ready to be cleaned up and stored.

How to Store Amaryllis Bulbs Step by Step

There are two main ways to store amaryllis bulbs:

• In their pots (the lazy and very effective method)
• Out of the soil in paper bags or boxes (great if you’re short on space or storing many bulbs)

Preparing Bulbs for Storage (Out of the Soil)

1. Lift the bulb: If your amaryllis is in the garden or a large container, carefully dig or slide the bulb out.
   Try to keep the roots intact, but don’t panic if some break.
2. Brush off soil: Gently shake or brush off excess soil. Don’t wash the bulbtoo much moisture invites rot in storage.
3. Inspect for damage: Trim away any soft, mushy, or obviously rotted spots with a clean knife.
   Firm, papery outer layers are normal.
4. Dry (“cure”) the bulb: Let bulbs sit in a dry, airy spot out of direct sun for a few days so the outer skins dry and minor wounds seal.

Packing Amaryllis Bulbs

Once cured, it’s time to tuck your bulbs into their off-season “bed.”

• Place bulbs in paper bags, breathable boxes, or mesh bags. Avoid sealed plastic bags, which trap humidity.
• You can nestle bulbs in dry peat moss, wood shavings, shredded paper, or dry potting mix
  to cushion them and absorb extra moisture.
• Label each bag or box with the variety and date. Your future self will thank you when you’re staring at anonymous bulbs in October.

Ideal Storage Conditions

Amaryllis bulbs prefer a cool, dry, dark place during dormancy.
Think “cozy basement” or “spare fridge drawer,” not “steamy laundry room.”

• Temperature: Aim for roughly 50–55°F (about 10–13°C).
  A cool basement, attached garage that doesn’t freeze, or spare refrigerator drawer can work well.
• Darkness: Store them in darkness or very low light. Light encourages growth before you’re ready.
• Dry but not desert-dry: The air should be dry enough to prevent mold, but not so bone-dry that bulbs shrivel badly.
  A breathable paper bag usually hits the sweet spot.

During this time, do not water or fertilize. The bulbs are resting, not growing, and extra moisture only increases the risk of rot.

How Long Should Amaryllis Bulbs Stay in Storage?

Most amaryllis bulbs need a dormancy of about 6–10 weeks.
Some gardeners go as short as 6 weeks, while others prefer 8–12 weeks for reliable reblooming.
Within that window, you can adjust timing to hit the bloom date you want.

Storing Amaryllis Bulbs in Pots (The Easy Method)

If your amaryllis is growing in a pot and you don’t feel like digging, good news: you can store it right in that same container.

1. Stop watering and let the foliage die back naturally as described above.
2. Cut off dry leaves and flower stalks once they’ve fully browned.
3. Move the entire pot to a cool, dark place at roughly 50–55°Fa basement shelf, unheated guest room, or spare closet can work.
4. Leave the soil dry during dormancy. Don’t be tempted to “just give it a little drink.”

After the rest period, you can either keep the plant in the same pot or repot into fresh soil before restarting growth.

Waking Up Your Stored Amaryllis Bulbs

When dormancy is over, it’s time to wake your bulbs and coax them into bloom again.

For Bulbs Stored Out of Soil

1. Inspect the bulbs: They should feel firm and heavy. A little wrinkling is okay; soft, moldy bulbs should be discarded.
2. Repot into fresh mix: Plant each bulb in a pot with drainage, using a high-quality, well-draining potting mix.
   Leave the top third of the bulb above the soil line.
3. Water once to settle the soil: Then water sparingly until you see growth.
4. Give bright light and warmth: A bright window or grow light and room temperatures around 65–70°F
   help the bulb break dormancy and start pushing a flower stalk.

For Bulbs Stored in Pots

1. Bring the pot into light: Move it from the cool, dark storage space to a bright, warm spot.
2. Water thoroughly once: Then keep the soil just barely moist while new growth appears.
3. Rotate the pot: Turn it every few days so the stalk grows straight instead of lunging for the nearest window.

With good storage and a proper wake-up routine, you’ll usually see a flower stalk in a few weeks, followed by those
signature oversized blooms.

Common Questions About Storing Amaryllis Bulbs

Can I Store Amaryllis Bulbs in the Refrigerator?

Yeswith an important warning. A fridge crisper can be a great cool, dark place,
but keep bulbs away from apples and other ripening fruits. Those release ethylene gas, which can damage the bulbs and prevent blooming.

What If My Storage Space Is Warmer Than 55°F?

Slightly warmer is usually okay, but very warm storage (think 65–75°F) can shorten dormancy and lead to weak growth.
If your home is warm, look for naturally cooler spots: near the floor, inside a closet on an exterior wall, or in an attached, frost-free garage.

Do Outdoor (Hardy) Amaryllis Need the Same Storage?

In warm climates where certain amaryllis can stay in the ground year-round, you may not need to dig and store bulbs at all.
In colder climates where soil freezes, lifting and storing bulbs indoors prevents them from being killed by frost.

How Do I Know if a Stored Bulb Is Dead?

Squeeze the bulb gently. If it’s firm and solid, it’s alive. If it’s mushy, hollow, or smells bad, it’s gone to the great compost pile in the sky.
Discard any rotten bulbs so they don’t spread disease to healthy ones.

of Real-World Experience: What Actually Works

On paper, storing amaryllis bulbs sounds like a neat little checklist: stop watering, cut leaves, tuck bulbs into a bag,
and wait. In real life, there are pets, busy schedules, surprise heat waves, and that one closet that swallows anything
you put in it. Here are some practical lessons that seasoned gardeners quietly learn the hard way.

First, timing is flexibledon’t stress if you miss the “perfect” week. Many home gardeners decide it’s dormancy time
when they realize the amaryllis has been shoved to the back of a shelf and they’re tired of watering it.
As long as the bulb had several months of leafy growth after blooming, you’re usually fine. One of the most common
beginner mistakes is cutting the leaves off too early because they look messy. That’s like pulling the plug on a charging phone at 10%.
Your bulb will survive, but the next bloom will likely be weaker.

Second, label everything. It sounds obsessive until you’re staring at a shoebox of anonymous bulbs in October thinking,
“Which one was the red double and which one was the white single?” A simple sticky note inside the box or a marker label
on the bag saves a lot of guesswork later. If you have kids, let them name the bulbs“Big Red,” “Snow Queen,” “Stripy Diva.”
Suddenly everyone cares if the bulbs survive storage.

Third, don’t panic about a little shriveling. Bulbs are water-storage organs; they naturally lose some moisture in dormancy.
If a bulb feels slightly lighter and the outer layers are a bit wrinkled, that’s normal. What you want to avoid is visible rot:
soft spots, moldy patches, or a sour smell. Gardeners often say, “When in doubt, throw it out,” but with amaryllis,
you can often rescue a bulb by trimming a small rotten section and letting the cut dry before repotting.

Fourth, monitor your storage space once or twice during dormancy. This is a quick “open the box, glance inside” level of commitment.
If you see condensation or feel dampness, move the bulbs to a drier spot or add more dry packing material like shredded paper or peat.
If a bulb has decided to wake up early and is sending up a shoot in the dark, just take the hint and pot it upyou’ve earned a bonus bloom.

Finally, give yourself permission to experiment. Some gardeners swear by storing bulbs bare in paper bags;
others like them gently buried in dry peat in wooden crates. Some use a cool basement; others rely on a spare refrigerator drawer.
The “best” way to store amaryllis bulbs is the one that fits your home and your habits. If you’re forgetful,
storing bulbs in their original pots in a closet may work better than juggling multiple labeled bags.
If you enjoy organizing, you might love a whole crate of neatly lined-up bulbs, all tagged and sorted by color.

The more seasons you store amaryllis bulbs, the more intuitive it becomes. You’ll learn which varieties rebloom fastest,
which corners of your home stay cool enough, and how long you can push dormancy to match holiday timing.
And when those familiar stalks rise in the middle of winter, you’ll know they’re blooming not just because of
genetics and fertilizer, but because you gave them the right rest.