How to Build an Inexpensive Blueberry Bush Cover

Blueberry season is magical: one day you’re admiring a bush full of green marbles, and the next day it’s basically a
bird buffet with a “Humans Pay Full Price” sign taped to the side. The good news: you don’t need a fancy orchard
tunnel or a second mortgage to keep your berries on the bush long enough to reach your bowl.

This guide walks you through simple, low-cost blueberry bush covers that actually workespecially against the
usual suspects (birds, squirrels, curious pets, and the occasional deer that thinks it’s doing “free-range grazing”).
You’ll get three budget-friendly build options, a materials list you can source at any big-box store, and practical
tips to make netting safer and less annoying to use. (Because “netting rage” is real.)

What a Blueberry Bush Cover Should Do (And What It Shouldn’t)

A good cover isn’t just “something net-like in the general area.” It needs to:

• Exclude birds before berries fully ripen (because they don’t wait for an invitation).
• Stay off the fruit so berries don’t get tangled and ripped off during harvest.
• Seal at the bottom so critters don’t stroll in underneath like they own the place.
• Open easily so you can harvest without untying 47 knots and questioning your life choices.
• Store well when the season ends (your future self will thank you).

What it shouldn’t do: trap wildlife. The “cheap” part isn’t worth it if netting is loose, droopy, or full of
holes critters can squeeze through. We’ll cover netting choices and safer setup methods so the cover protects your
harvest without causing harm.

Step 1: Pick Your “Enemy List” and Match the Design

Before buying anything, decide what you’re defending against. Different pests call for different tactics.

If birds are the main problem

Bird netting is usually the most reliable option. The key is using a frame so netting doesn’t sit directly on the
bush (birds can peck through, and you’ll snag berries during harvest). A well-supported cover also makes it easier
to pull netting tight and seal the bottom.

If deer or pets are also involved

Add a sturdier perimeter: a simple ring of fencing, a short “cage” wall, or a second layer of deer netting on the
outside. Deer are tall, persistent, and emotionally unbothered by your feelings.

If squirrels/chipmunks are the problem

A tight bottom seal matters most. Add ground staples, boards, or a weighted “skirt” to stop the sneak-under move.
(They’re not smarter than you. They’re just more motivated.)

Step 2: Choose Netting That’s Effective, Manageable, and Safer

Netting choices can make the difference between “easy harvest” and “tangled plastic octopus.”

• Mesh size: Many gardeners prefer smaller openings (often around 1/2 inch or smaller) to reduce
  the chance of birds getting caught and to keep smaller birds from pushing through.
• Material: UV-resistant netting lasts longer. Lightweight plastic netting is cheapest but can
  snag and tear; sturdier woven netting costs a bit more but is easier to reuse year after year.
• Color: Black netting is often easier to see and manage than clear netting (clear is basically
  “invisible fishing line for your sanity”).

Regardless of what you buy: keep netting taut, avoid loose folds, and check it regularly. A cover
should be snug like a fitted sheetannoying to install, but secure once it’s on.

Step 3: Measure Your Bush (Yes, Even If It Offends the Bush)

Covers work best with a little breathing room:

• Height: Bush height + 12–18 inches (so netting doesn’t press on berries).
• Width/depth: Bush width + 12–24 inches (clearance for growth and easy harvest access).

Example: If your bush is 5 feet tall and about 4 feet wide, aim for a cover about 6 to 6.5 feet
tall and roughly 5 to 6 feet wide.

Three Inexpensive Build Options (Pick Your Favorite)

Option A: The PVC “Box Cage” (Best for 1–2 Bushes)

This is the simplest DIY blueberry bush cover: a lightweight PVC frame you drape with bird netting, plus an easy
“door” so you can harvest without removing the whole cover.

Materials (budget-friendly)

• PVC pipe (1/2″ to 1″)
• PVC elbows and T-connectors (or “furniture-grade” connectors if you want to be fancy on a budget)
• Bird netting (enough to cover top + sides with overlap)
• Zip ties or reusable hook-and-loop straps
• Ground staples or landscape pins or scrap boards/bricks to weight the bottom
• (Optional) Two binder clips or spring clamps for a quick-close “door”

Build steps

1. Cut PVC: Make 4 vertical posts (height), plus top and bottom rectangles (width/depth).
2. Assemble the cube: Dry-fit first, then assemble. You can skip glue so it disassembles for storage.
3. Anchor the frame: Push legs slightly into soil, or zip-tie the frame to short stakes. If wind is
   common, add rebar stakes at corners and slip PVC over them.
4. Drape netting: Lay netting over the top and down all sides with at least 6–12 inches of extra overlap.
5. Create a harvest door: Pick one side to act as a flap. Instead of zip-tying that side permanently,
   clip it shut with clamps, clothespins, or reusable straps.
6. Seal the bottom: Use staples, pins, or weights (boards/bricks) along edges so birds can’t slip in.

Why it works

The frame keeps netting off berries (less snagging), and the “door flap” keeps harvest easy. Also, the whole thing
is light enough to lift and reposition if you prune or need to weed.

Option B: The Hoop Cover (Best for a Row or Cluster of Bushes)

Think “mini tunnel,” but for blueberries. This option is inexpensive, scalable, and surprisingly sturdy if you
anchor it correctly.

Materials

• PVC pipe (1/2″ is common for hoops) or flexible conduit/hoop material
• Rebar (short pieces) or sturdy stakes for anchoring hoops
• A ridge line (strong string, nylon line, or wire) to reduce sag
• Bird netting large enough to drape over the tunnel with side overlap
• Clips/zip ties
• Ground staples or weights for the bottom

Build steps

1. Place anchors: Drive rebar/stakes along both sides of the row, spacing them 4–6 feet apart.
2. Add hoops: Bend PVC into arches and slide the ends over rebar. Aim for clearance above the bush tops.
3. Add a ridge line: Run a line along the top (end to end). Tie each hoop to it to reduce sagging.
4. Drape netting: Pull netting over the hoops and ridge line like a tent. Secure to hoops with clips or ties.
5. Seal the edges: Staple netting to soil, or weigh edges with boards, landscape pins, or lengths of scrap wood.
6. Create an access point: At one end (or the middle), overlap netting like a curtain and clip it closed.

Cost-saving tip

If you already have row-cover hoops from the vegetable garden, you can reuse them. Blueberries don’t judge you for
recycling. Birds do, but only because they’re furious.

Option C: The “Big Tent” Over a Patch (Best for Larger Plantings)

If you’ve got several bushes in one area, it’s often cheaper and easier to cover the whole patch than to build
individual cages. The basic idea: posts (or T-posts), a support line/wire, and netting draped and anchored.

Materials

• Corner posts or sturdy T-posts
• Top support line (wire, nylon line, or strong rope)
• Bird netting sized for the full footprint
• Clips/zip ties
• Ground staples or weights
• (Optional) Post caps or padding to reduce snagging

Build steps

1. Set your perimeter: Put posts at corners of the patch. Add intermediate posts if the span is wide.
2. Run support lines: String lines across the top in a grid (even a simple “X” helps). This supports netting and reduces sag.
3. Drape and secure netting: Pull netting across the top support lines, then down the sides.
4. Anchor the bottom: This is non-negotiable. Use staples, boards, or a weighted skirt.
5. Create a door: Overlap netting on one side and clip it shut. Make it easy to open and close daily.

When to Put the Cover On (So You Don’t Lock Out Pollinators)

Blueberries need pollinators during bloom. So the sweet spot is:
after bloom/pollination but before berries are fully ripe.
Many gardeners time netting for when berries begin to color or a couple of weeks before peak ripeningearly enough
to beat the birds, late enough to avoid blocking bees.

Make It Extra Inexpensive: DIY “Upgrades” That Cost Almost Nothing

1) The weighted skirt trick

Instead of buying special clips, roll the bottom edge of netting around a scrap length of PVC, a thin board, or
even a garden hose, then clip it. It adds weight and helps keep edges vertical and sealed.

2) Reusable fasteners

Zip ties work, but reusable hook-and-loop straps or small spring clamps make seasonal setup and takedown much faster.
(Also: less plastic waste, more sanity.)

3) “No-snags” corners

Sharp corners tear netting. If your frame has corners that catch, pad them with old rubber, fabric scraps, or even
a cut piece of foam pipe insulation.

Troubleshooting: Common Problems and Easy Fixes

“Birds still got in.”

• Check the bottom seal first. Most “break-ins” happen underneath.
• Make sure the door flap is clipped closed all the way down.
• Pull netting tighterloose netting creates gaps and easy entry points.

“Netting tangles every time I touch it.”

• Use a frame so netting stays off branches.
• Store netting folded around a piece of cardboard or rolled like a sleeping bag.
• Choose sturdier woven netting if you’re replacing cheap netting every year anyway.

“Harvesting is a nightmare.”

• Add a bigger “door” flap and clip it shut (think curtain, not sealed bunker).
• Build the frame tall enough to reach inside comfortably.
• If you have multiple bushes, a patch tent may be easier than several small cages.

Maintenance and Storage (The Part You’ll Love Later)

When harvest winds down, take netting off on a dry day, shake off leaves, and store it clean. Sunlight breaks down
plastic over time, so storing netting out of the weather helps it last longer. If your frame is PVC, you can
disassemble and stack it in a corner of the garage like a very boring set of pool noodles.

Conclusion

An inexpensive blueberry bush cover doesn’t have to be flimsy or frustrating. The winning formula is simple:
a frame (PVC box, hoop tunnel, or patch tent) plus taut, well-anchored netting
with an easy access flap. You’ll save berries, reduce tangles, and spend less time negotiating with knots.
Your future selfholding a bowl of blueberries that birds did not approvewill be very proud.

of Real-Life Experience Building Blueberry Bush Covers

The first time I tried to “protect” blueberries, I used the classic approach: I tossed bird netting over the bush
like a blanket and called it a day. Technically, it was a cover. Practically, it was a blueberry-laundering
operation for birds. They perched on top, pecked right through, and I learned an important gardening truth:
if you make something easy for wildlife, wildlife will give you a five-star review on Yelp.

Attempt #2 was “better” in the same way that stepping on a LEGO is better than stepping on two LEGOs. I built a
quick PVC framenothing fancy, just a boxand draped the netting over it. Immediately, harvesting got easier
because the net wasn’t hugging the branches. That alone felt like a breakthrough. The berries stopped getting
tangled, and I stopped accidentally yanking off half-ripe clusters while trying to free them from plastic mesh.
If you’re on the fence about using a frame: do it. Your hands will thank you, and your blueberry bush will stop
looking personally attacked.

The real lesson, though, was sealing the bottom. The first framed cover still had “gaps” because I figured the
netting draped down far enough. It did not. Birds are extremely committed once they know berries exist. I’d go out
in the morning, see the netting gently lifted at one corner, and think, “Wind?” Then I’d notice the tiny feather
situation and realize: nope, that was a coordinated entry plan. Once I started anchoring the edges with landscape
staples (and, honestly, whatever heavy things were nearbyscrap boards, bricks, a spare paver), the break-ins
basically stopped.

Timing also mattered more than I expected. If I put netting on too early during bloom, I worried about blocking
pollinators. If I waited too late, the birds had already started sampling and came back like regular customers.
The sweet spot ended up being right after bloom, when berries began swelling and then just started to hint at
color. That’s when bird interest ramps up. I started thinking of netting like locking your car: you don’t wait
until you see someone trying the door handle.

My final “wish I knew earlier” tip is storage. The year I balled up netting and threw it on a shelf, the next
season began with a 30-minute wrestling match and a lot of creative language. Now I fold it and wrap it around a
piece of cardboard like gift wrap. It comes out neatly, goes on faster, and I don’t start blueberry season already
annoyed. Which, in gardening, is basically the definition of success.