How to Do Tatting With a Needle

Needle tatting is one of those crafts that looks like you needed to be born in a Victorian parlor to understand it.
Good news: you don’t. If you can thread a needle and make a loop, you can learn needle tatting.
In this guide, you’ll learn the core skillsdouble stitches, picots, rings, chains, joinsplus practical tips,
troubleshooting, a beginner practice pattern, and a “real-life” section at the end so you can skip a few rookie
headaches (or at least laugh while you have them).

What Is Needle Tatting (and Why It’s So Beginner-Friendly)

Tatting is a lace-making technique built from knots and loops arranged into rings and
chains. Traditional tatting uses a shuttle; needle tatting uses a long needle as a temporary
“mold” for the stitches. You build stitches directly on the needle, then slide them off and pull the thread through
to form a ring or a chain. That “build first, commit later” vibe is a big reason many beginners find needle
tatting less intimidating.

Another perk: needle tatting is forgiving. You can count stitches while they’re still on the needle, and if
something looks wrong, you can back the needle out and let the offending stitches fall off. It’s like hitting
“undo” without having to negotiate with your whole project.

Tools and Supplies You’ll Need

1) A Tatting Needle (Not Just Any Needle)

A tatting needle is long, straight, and has an eye that’s close to the shaft thickness so stitches can slide over
it smoothly. The key rule: the needle should match your thread size. If your needle is too thick,
your lace will look loose; if it’s too thin, sliding stitches over the eye becomes a workout you didn’t sign up for.

• Beginner-friendly thread sizes: Size 10 or size 20 cotton is easy to see and handle.
• Finer lace: Size 40 and smaller (higher numbers = thinner thread) makes daintier work.

2) Thread (Cotton Is the Classic Choice)

Mercerized cotton crochet thread is popular because it’s smooth, strong, and shows stitch definition well. For your
first projects, choose a light color (white, cream, pale pastel) so you can see what’s happening. Dark thread is
beautifulbut it hides mistakes like a magician’s cape.

3) Helpful Extras

• Small scissors (sharp enough to cut thread cleanly, not chew it).
• Needle threader (especially with finer threads).
• Crochet hook (tiny, for joinsoptional but very handy).
• Blocking supplies: rustproof pins, a blocking board or towel, and (optional) starch/stiffener.

Needle Tatting Basics: The Only Stitch You Really Need

Tatting is built from the double stitch (ds). A double stitch is made of two parts (two half
hitches). In needle tatting, you form those two loops directly on the needlemany instructions compare the motion
to a knitting cast-on because you’re essentially “casting” loops onto the needle.

How to Hold the Thread Without Summoning Chaos

You’ll have two threads to manage:
the ball thread (working thread) and the tail thread (short end).
Needle tatting is often worked from the ball, with stitches sliding onto the needle, then onto the thread through
the needle’s eye (the “carrying thread”).

Step-by-Step: Make One Double Stitch (ds)

1. Thread your needle and leave a comfortable tail (think: generous, not stingy).
2. Pinch the needle and thread so you have a working loop and your needle is stable.
3. First half stitch: Loop the ball thread over your left index finger in one direction, catch that loop with the needle tip, and snug it up on the needle.
4. Second half stitch: Loop the ball thread in the opposite direction, catch the loop again, and snug it next to the first half.
5. Congrats: those two halves together are one double stitch. Repeat until your fingers stop asking what they did to deserve this.

Picots: Pretty Loops With a Purpose

A picot (p) is a small loop of thread that can be decorative and also used for joining. In needle
tatting, you make a picot by simply leaving a space on the needle between stitches. When you slide stitches
together, that gap becomes the loop.

Tip: use a consistent spaceryour fingertip, a tiny ruler mark, or a picot gaugeso your picots don’t look like
they’re from three different lace families.

Rings and Chains: The Two Shapes That Build Everything

If tatting were a sitcom, rings and chains would be the main characters, and
everything else is a recurring guest star. Most patterns are combinations of rings and chains connected by joins.

How to Make a Ring in Needle Tatting

1. Build stitches on the needle according to your pattern (ds and picots).
2. Slide the stitches off the needle and onto the thread that comes through the needle’s eye (the carrying thread). Go slowly so the loop doesn’t accidentally close early.
3. Close the ring: pass the needle through the small loop at the far end and pull the thread through until the circle tightens into a ring.
4. Secure the base (often with a small knot, depending on your method/pattern), then move on.

Why rings sometimes fight back: if your stitches are too tight on the needle, they won’t slide smoothly, and the
ring can close unevenly. Aim for “snug but movable,” like a well-fitted hoodie.

How to Make a Chain in Needle Tatting

Chains are like rings that don’t connect back to themselves. They create arches between rings or form long edging
patterns.

1. Position the needle at the base of the last element (often right by the ring’s knot/base).
2. Work the required stitches (ds and picots) onto the needle.
3. Slide the stitches off over the eye onto the carrying thread.
4. Pull through so the chain snugly sits against the previous element, forming an arch instead of a closed circle.

Joining: How Motifs Connect Without Looking Like a Tangled Headphone Cord

Most tatting patterns “join” a new ring or chain to a previous picot. In needle tatting, you typically insert the
needle tip (or a small crochet hook) through the picot, pull a loop of the working thread through, and continue
stitching so the new element anchors to the old one.

A Simple Join (Beginner Version)

1. Work stitches until the pattern says join.
2. Insert your needle through the target picot (back to front is common).
3. Pull a loop of the working thread through the picot.
4. Run the needle through that loop and snug it so the join sits neatly.
5. Continue stitching as written.

If your joins look tight and puckered, loosen slightly and make sure your join loop isn’t strangling the picot.
(Yes, that’s a real technical term. Totally.)

How to Read Needle Tatting Pattern Notation

Needle tatting patterns often use the same shorthand as shuttle tatting. Common abbreviations:

• ds = double stitch
• p = picot
• R = ring
• Ch = chain
• j = join
• RW = reverse work (flip your work to continue in the correct direction)

Example: R: 4ds, p, 4ds, close means build 4 double stitches, make a picot, build 4 more, then
close into a ring.

A common style for repeats looks like this: (R, Ch) x 6 which means repeat a ring and chain
sequence six times.

A Beginner Practice Pattern: Tiny Ring-and-Chain Edging

This simple edging helps you practice double stitches, picots, rings, chains, and joins. Use size 10 cotton thread
and a matching tatting needle.

Pattern Key

• ds = double stitch
• p = picot (make it about 1/8–1/4 inch; consistency matters more than the exact size)
• j = join to the previous ring’s picot
• RW = reverse work

Edging Instructions

1. R1: 4ds, p, 4ds. Close ring. (Optional: secure the base neatly.) RW.
2. Ch1: 4ds, p, 4ds. Slide off needle to form chain. RW.
3. R2: 4ds, j to R1 picot, 4ds. Close ring. RW.
4. Ch2: 4ds, p, 4ds. RW.
5. Repeat steps 3–4 until you have a cute little lace strip.

Beginner win: after every ring or chain, count your ds before you slide off. This one habit saves
so much time it should come with a trophy.

Common Problems (and Fixes That Don’t Involve Starting Over in Rage)

Problem: Stitches Won’t Slide Off the Needle

• Cause: stitches are too tight, or the needle eye is too thick compared to the shaft/thread.
• Fix: loosen your tension slightly; consider a better-matched needle/thread combo.

Problem: Rings Won’t Close Smoothly

• Cause: uneven tension, twisted thread, or stitches packed too tightly.
• Fix: slow down on the pull-through; “milk” the stitches gently with your fingers to help them settle as you close the ring.

Problem: Picots Are All Different Sizes

• Cause: inconsistent spacing on the needle.
• Fix: use a spacer method (finger, gauge, or a tiny piece of card) and make picots the same way every time.

Problem: Joins Look Tight or Bulky

• Cause: join loop pulled too tight, or join made in an awkward direction.
• Fix: pull snug, not strangled; use a small hook to pull a clean loop; check that you’re joining through the correct picot.

Problem: The Thread Keeps Twisting

• Cause: thread naturally twists as you work; long lengths magnify it.
• Fix: let the needle and thread dangle occasionally to untwist; use shorter working lengths if needed.

Finishing: Weaving in Ends, Blocking, and (Optional) Stiffening

Weaving in Ends

For small projects, you can weave ends through a few stitches on the back side using a sewing needle, then trim.
The goal is security without creating a noticeable lump.

Blocking for That “Professional Lace” Look

Tatting often curls or looks a little wiggly straight off the needle. Blocking helps the lace relax and lie flat:

1. Lightly mist your lace or dampen it (not soaking).
2. Pin it into shape on a blocking surface (align picots and points).
3. Let it dry fully before unpinning.

Stiffening (Optional, but Great for Snowflakes and Ornaments)

If you’re making something that needs to hold a crisp shape (like a snowflake), a light starch or fabric stiffener
can help. Use it sparinglyyour lace should look elegant, not like it’s been laminated for a school project.

Level-Up Tips: Getting Better Faster Without Turning It Into Homework

• Practice in “stitch snacks”: do 10 minutes of double stitches, then stop. Short practice builds muscle memory.
• Count out loud: it feels silly; it prevents mistakes. Your lace doesn’t judge you.
• Use bigger thread first: size 10 is great for learning because you can see what’s happening.
• Photograph your work: zooming in reveals tension issues you can’t see at arm’s length.
• Repeat the same mini pattern: improvement comes faster when your brain isn’t decoding new instructions every time.

Real-Life Needle Tatting Experiences ( of “Been There, Done That”)

The first time I tried needle tatting, I expected instant lacelike the crafty equivalent of putting a frozen pizza
in the oven and pulling out a gourmet meal. What I got was a suspicious knot-snake with picots that looked like
they belonged to three different species. And honestly? That’s normal.

Here’s what it tends to feel like in real life: your hands are learning a new “dance,” and at first you step on
your own feet. The double stitch is simple on paper, but your fingers need time to understand how tight is “tight
enough,” how to place each half stitch neatly, and how to keep the thread from doing that dramatic twisty thing
that makes you question your life choices.

Most beginners have one big “aha” moment: realizing that needle tatting is less about pulling hard and more about
guiding gently. When my stitches wouldn’t slide off the needle, I assumed I needed stronger fingers. NopeI needed
softer tension. Once I started making stitches snug but movable (instead of yanking them into submission), the work
flowed. Rings closed more smoothly, and chains stopped looking like limp spaghetti.

Picots are a comedy show at first. You make one perfect picot, then the next one is twice as long, then the next
one vanishes completely like it’s shy. The fix that helped me most was choosing one spacer method and sticking with
itsame finger placement, same distance, every time. After a few practice strips, my picots started looking
intentional instead of accidental.

Joins are another rite of passage. Early joins can look bulky or tight, and sometimes they pull the lace into a
weird pucker. My best lesson: treat a join like a handshakefirm and friendly, not bone-crushing. Pull the join
loop just enough to sit neatly, then continue. If you tug it too tight, everything around it gets cranky.

The most satisfying moment in needle tatting is when you block your first finished piece. You pin it out, walk away
thinking it still looks “pretty good for a beginner,” and come back to something that looks unmistakably like lace.
Blocking is where the craft suddenly shows off. It’s also when you realize your tension has improvedbecause the
lace opens up evenly instead of fighting the pins.

If you’re new: give yourself permission to make “ugly practice lace.” Your first few strips are not supposed to be
heirlooms. They’re training wheels. And one day you’ll look down and realize your fingers are moving without you
micromanaging every loop. That’s when needle tatting becomes relaxingthe kind of relaxing where you can watch a
show, sip tea, and quietly create something that looks like it belongs in a vintage keepsake box.

Conclusion

Learning how to do tatting with a needle comes down to mastering the double stitch, then using it to build rings,
chains, and joins. Start with thicker thread, practice short sessions, count your stitches before sliding them off,
and block your finished work so it shows its true lace potential. Keep it playful, keep it consistent, and don’t be
surprised when your “just practicing” strip turns into something you want to show off.